Recipe: Roasted Fall Salad
Years ago I heard about a person who was authentically and actually named Autumn Hughes, and I thought at the time that this cheeky wordplay was a pretty big thing to saddle a little infant with, especially before one knew if she possessed the necessary aplomb and humor to bear the name in the other three seasons of the year. I’ve lost track of that particular person but a quick Google suggests that hers were not the only parents who ever took such liberties.
Fall is a beautiful palette, though, isn’t it? Summer’s big goodbye and the on-ramp to the hushed tones of winter in one big fiery go. Recently I’ve had the opportunity to drive a little ways north, south, east and west of where I live, and I love seeing the time-lapse of the colors’ advancement as I whip along through these little variations in climate and topography.
Another miracle of fall: As the last tomatoes dance through the markets, the first of the fall squash begin to appear. This happy crisscross makes it the right moment to transition from the tender greens of the summer salad bowl, which get by with the light attention of olive oil and lemon, to an autumn-hued platter of warm and warming cooked vegetables that still register as salad enough to count. I love roasting cherry tomatoes in any season, as that brief and simple fuss concentrates their gifts and delivers a huge flavor pay-off. Like most fresh herbs, basil and mint are passable from the market in just about any season, and they play well with the brightness of lime juice to bring true salad mojo to the thing.
Roasted Fall Salad
2 medium delicata squash (roughly 2 pounds)
1 dry pint of cherry or grape tomatoes, of any color (or a mixture)
2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons maple syrup
1 scant teaspoon of kosher salt
A few grinds of fresh black pepper
About a teaspoon of finely grated fresh ginger
1/2 cup Marcona almonds
A handful of fresh basil
A handful of fresh mint
Juice of half a lime
Heat the oven to 425. Line a baking sheet with parchment paper.
Slice the tomatoes in half lengthwise. Halve the squash lengthwise and scrape out the innards. Cut crossways into 1/2-inch slices.
In a medium bowl, toss the tomato halves with the oil, syrup, salt, pepper and ginger. Use a slotted spoon to scoop the tomatoes out of the bowl to one side of the prepared baking sheet, arranging them cut side up and reserving the excess dressing in the bowl. Throw the squash slices into the bowl and mix them around with the sauce, lightly coating them. Arrange these in a single layer on the other side of the baking sheet. Slide the pan into the oven and roast, flipping the squash slices over after about 10 minutes, until the tomatoes are wrinkled and concentrated and the squash is tender and lightly browned in spots. Set aside to cool a bit.
Mince the fresh herbs and coarsely chop the almonds. Arrange the squash slices on a plate, and scatter the tomatoes on top. Sprinkle the nuts and herbs on top of that, and squeeze the lime juice over it all.
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