The restaurant descriptions that follow reflect the opinions of the editors of Rural Intelligence.
They are editorial content, not paid advertisements, and are organized by county.
|Prairie Whale, in Great Barrington, for a new farm-to-table hangout.||Terrapin, in Rhinebeck, offers astonishing variety and value in a glittering setting.||Table Six, in Lenox, features a changing prix fixe meal in the refurbished Kemble Inn.|
Since 1990, the West Street Grill, the beloved eminence grise of the Litchfield green, has married the classical with the experimental, sophistication with simplicity, city with country. Co-owners James O’Shea and Charles Kafferman apply the discipline of the French tradition to a truly American cuisine, while O’Shea’s Gaelic sense of hospitality extends to regulars, including a raft of celebrities, and newcomers alike. Chef Jimmy Cosgriff’s considerable powers of invention are very much in evidence in the perpetually changing menu. Starters might include a “creamy” soup that contains not so much as a drop of cream or butter, accompanied by a decidedly non-vegan parmesan aioli grilled peasant bread that the West Street Grill has been serving since it opened. A main course might consist of fresh wild striped bass with baby patty pan squash, local corn, roasted tomatoes, all in an aromatic fennel broth or delicious braised short ribs with a gratin of sweet potatoes in a filo crust. For dessert, there is a choice of vegan sorbets, a citrusy lime tart, or a classic over-the-top Irish banoffee pie—toffee, banana and shaved bittersweet chocolate.
It’s no exaggeration to say that if the West Street Grill hadn’t existed, the citizens of Litchfield County would have had to invent it. A score of years after its founding, as other restaurants have come and gone, it has endured, evolved, prevailed. —Angeline Goreau
43 West Street, 860.567.3885
Lunch & dinner daily
Monday - Thursday: 11:30 a.m.- 3 p.m
Friday and Saturday: 11:30 a.m.–10:30 p.m..
Related post: West Street Grill: A Hardy Litchfield Perennial