The restaurant descriptions that follow reflect the opinions of the editors of Rural Intelligence.
They are editorial content, not paid advertisements, and are organized by county.
|Prairie Whale, in Great Barrington, for a new farm-to-table hangout.||Terrapin, in Rhinebeck, offers astonishing variety and value in a glittering setting.||Table Six, in Lenox, features a changing prix fixe meal in the refurbished Kemble Inn.|
The circa 1850 space, formerly the home of Blackwood & Brouwer Booksellers, is a brick-and-mortar incarnation of the Black Forest Flammkuchen food truck. Here, there is a full menu of French-German comfort food. “Flammerie” means ‘the place for ‘flammkuchen’, and the proprietors’ (Andrew Chase, a CIA graduate, and Conny Chase, from Munich) signature is the paper-thin crusted wood-fired flatbread. The Flammerie’s well-executed blend of rooted tradition and new world twist is demonstrated by the ‘Puerco’ flammkuchen, topped with chipotle fromage blanc, guajillo-braised pork shoulder and cilantro ($10). The emphasis on Columbia County’s bright seasonal vegetables, such as the delicate and beautifully plated beet and watermelon radish salad ($9), lightens a potentially stodgy Germanic palate. Brotzeit, the small plates, priced between $8-10 apiece, are the jewels of The Flammerie. The sumptuously cooked, locally sourced Lover’s Leap pork belly is perfectly paired with the bed of pickled sauerkraut. The earthy, silky house-made bourbon duck liver mousse, and the Fleischpflanzerl—Bavarian meatloaf sliders—are savory and filling. Entrées of pork loin schnitzel ($21) and coq au vin ($22), are well-done versions of these classics. Spätzle enthusiasts should try the Forestiere, served piping hot in a gratin dish, the wood-fired mushrooms and braised greens hidden within glistening, melted raclette ($7 small/$11 large). The excellent local ingredients make The Flammerie’s offerings distinctive amongst the region’s refined pub food.
7 Hudson St., Kinderhook, NY
Wednesday—Sunday 5-10 p.m.
Reservations highly recommended.