The restaurant descriptions that follow reflect the opinions of the editors of Rural Intelligence.
They are editorial content, not paid advertisements, and are organized by county.
|Prairie Whale, in Great Barrington, for a new farm-to-table hangout.||Terrapin, in Rhinebeck, offers astonishing variety and value in a glittering setting.||Table Six, in Lenox, features a changing prix fixe meal in the refurbished Kemble Inn.|
It’s exciting to find a chef who not only appreciates black pig but also knows how to make the most of it. While the menu here reflects the Catalan origins of the family of chef/owner Rei Peraza, it is an original presentation of dishes not usually seen in restaurants, Spanish or otherwise. Their execution is virtually flawless, and the personable staff is attentive and well educated about what is on offer. Start with a tapas: migas (1-year-old Ozark ham, mushrooms cheddar, poached egg, red eye gravy vinaigrette), or heritage pig belly (sherry-cherry molasses glaze), or a citrus-garlic braised pork with red cabbage slaw, or jamon Serrano (dry cured 9 months, Spain). Alternatively, there’s a creamy eggplant-garlic soup with roasted lemon and crème fraiche, or a “snack” of crisp pig ears with saffron yoghurt, or, from the charcuterie, lomo iberico, 100% acorn-fed Iberian pig loin that is about the tenderest, most melt-in-your-mouth morsel you can imagine. While chef Peraza does homage to locavore tastes when possible, he quite rightly turns to Spain for many of his ham and other pork products. For those not inclined toward pork or other exotica, the menu offers wild striped bass, New York Strip steak, and roasted Amish chicken. Even these are seasoned and garnished in highly original and tasty ways. —Peter Davies
69 Broadway, Tivoli, NY
Tuesday - Thursday 5:30 - 9 (bar menu - 10)
Friday & Saturday 5:30 - 10 (bar menu - 12)
Closed Sunday & Monday
Related post: Tapas and Then Some in Tivoli