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RI Archives: Food

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A Rose By Any Other Name

Rural Intelligence FoodBerkshire native Alana Chernila, local politician, mother of two, and author of the new cookbook, The Homemade Pantry: 101 Foods You Can Stop Buying & Start Making (Clarkson Potter), dispenses change and cooking ideas to readers and friends. She shares her peak-of-the-season recipes with Rural Intelligence to help us make the most of what’s growing in our region. Her first cookbook has achieved top-seller status, and Chernila has just announced that she has a new one in the works: Meals from the Homemade Pantry (Clarkson Potter), due out in 2014.

Rural Intelligence FoodWhen my friend, Kari Chapin, asked me if she could come over to make caramels for Valentine’s day, I said YES! before she even finished her question. I love Kari. I love her that much. Because the secret that she didn’t know, and still hasn’t known until right now when she, like you, is reading this post, is that I don’t even like caramels. I really don’t.

I like caramel sauce on ice cream or sweet drizzles of caramel in the upper crust of a pan of brownies. This is how I take my caramel. Chewy candies in wrappers make my teeth hurt. If I get through the chewing unscathed, then I don’t like how the sugar stays with me. I’ll take chocolate any day.

However, I do understand and appreciate that other people like caramels, and so I make them to tuck into little boxes and give away. I infuse them with anything within reason. I wrap them in parchment, and I give them to the people in my life who swing that way–they’re the ones who think longingly of caramel apples and don’t hesitate to put a fifth spoonful of sugar in their coffee. I even have a caramel recipe in my book. I know how people feel about caramels. I may be looking on from afar, but I get it.

Kari’s request for our day together was that we both take a day’s holiday from writing, make a little Valentine’s day candy, pop out for Indian food while the candy cooled, and then make a kitchen mix of love songs.

Again with the yes, yes, and yes. I was easy to convince. And after this day of so much goodness, something else happened.

Rural Intelligence FoodI ate a great many caramels. It turns out that when I say ‘yes,’ new worlds just open up. It might have been the rose petals, or it might just have been the circumstances around the day, but these were my kind of candy. I’ve crossed over.

So here we have it. A caramel recipe for the holiday from Kari and I.




Rose Caramels
adapted from The Homemade Pantry (I made that!)

2 cups heavy cream
1 cup dried organic rose petals (You can often find these in the bulk herbs or tea section of the grocery store.)
1 1/2 cups granulated sugar
1/2 cup Lyle’s golden syrup
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter at room temperature, cut into chunks
2 teaspoons rosewater

1. Warm the cream in a medium saucepan until it steams. Add the rose petals, stir to combine, and cover. Set aside to steep for 30 minutes.

2. Line a square (8×8 or 9×9) baking pan with aluminum foil so that it folds over the sides of the pan, then lightly grease the foil with butter or oil. Fill a small bowl with cold water, put a pastry brush in the water, and set it on your work surface.

Rural Intelligence Food3. Combine the sugar, golden syrup, and salt in a medium saucepan over medium heat, stirring with a wooden spoon to combine. When the mixture begins to bubble around the edges, use the wet pastry brush to brush the sugar crystals off the sides of the pan. Affix a candy thermometer to the side of the pan so that it is not touching the bottom. From this point on — no stirring!

4. Strain the rose petals out of the cream, then return the cream to medium heat just to warm it up a bit. When it steams, remove from heat, cover, and set aside.

5. Meanwhile, cook the caramel without stirring until it reaches 238°F and is a medium amber color. Remove from heat (it will reach 240°F as you pull it off the heat). Add the softened butter and warm cream, stirring with the wooden spoon to combine. It will bubble and spurt, so stir until it calms down.

Rural Intelligence Food6. Place the pot of caramel back over medium heat and again bring the caramel back up to 238°F, stirring frequently, 15 to 20 minutes. Remove from heat. Use the wooden spoon to stir in the rosewater (once again it will sputter!). Pour the mixture into the prepared pan. Set the pan aside and let sit undisturbed for at least 5 hours.

7. Pull out the whole square of caramel by the foil peeking out over the sides of the pan, lay it on a cutting board, and remove the foil. The caramel will be firm enough to hold its shape, but not firm enough to cut with a knife. Grab about 1 teaspoon worth with your hands and roll into a ball. Wrap each ball into a square of parchment or wax paper, shaping it into a cylinder and twisting the ends to seal.

Reprinted with permission from Eatingfromthegroundup.com. All text and photos copyright 2008-13 by Alana Chernila.

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