Market St. — Italian ‘Fusion Without Confusion’ In Rhinebeck
Photo by Matt Petricone for Roll Magazine.
By Andrea Pyros
You might think that after opening “30, 35” restaurants (he’s lost count), Chef Gianni Scappin wouldn’t bat an eye over launching a new eatery. When Rural Intelligence talked to the charming pro, he was deep in preparations for his latest launch, Gusto, in Poughkeepsie. We met up with him at Market St., his two-year-old homestyle Italian restaurant in the heart of Rhinebeck, where Scappin admitted that he’s “never comfortable” about starting another venture.
But at this point he’s earned the right to more confidence than just about anyone on Hudson Valley’s dining scene. After all, the Italian-born and trained chef has cooked at top restaurants in major cities throughout the world; served as a guest chef at the James Beard House; helped develop an advanced Italian cooking class for the Culinary Institute of America where he continues to teach today; co-authored four cookbooks, including one with friend Stanley Tucci; and is currently feeding happy diners at Cucina (Woodstock), Gusto and Market St.
Food photos by Keith Ferris.
Though it entered into a town with other excellent dining options, Market St. has managed to make a name for itself, and it’s become a popular spot for locals as well as weekend tourists who appreciate Scappin and his team’s fresh, vibrant menu and emphasis on hospitality. “It’s a little bit fusion, but without confusion,” Scappin laughs, adding that Market stays within his Italian/Mediterranean roots, for example by using extra virgin olive oil in the place of butter or cream to provide that “green freshness,” and updating the menu four to five times a year to work with the season’s ingredients.
During a recent visit, we started with rich, flavorful grass-fed beef meatballs with tomato and organic polenta ($8.50), a perfectly balanced bruschetta Parma with mozzarella, prosciutto, olive oil and aged balsamic ($9.50), and a simple salad of roasted beets, Coach Farm goat cheese and arugula ($11.50) dressed with a tangy vinaigrette. The wood oven pizzas and breads are a major presence on the menu (not surprising, considering Scappin made the wood-burning oven Market St.’s focal point). Try the Caprina (fig-herb spread, Coach Farm goat cheese, pear, arugula and truffle oil, $17) or Boscaiola (mixed mushrooms, mozzarella, tomato and herbs, $16.50). They’re cooked perfectly, with crispy, thin crusts and complementary flavors that provide maximum impact. Pastas and risottos are hard to resist — they’re bursting with top-quality ingredients, and gluten-free and whole-wheat options are available. But save room; Satisfying main dishes like a slowly baked salmon with snap peas, potato puree, and black truffle vinaigrette ($26) and a local aged ribeye steak with crispy fingerling potatoes, chickpeas, sage and spicy aioli ($32) are waiting for your enjoyment, too.
If you feel like exploring, try one of the specialty cocktails, such as the ginger margarita ($11) or a “Burnt Venetian,” made with vodka, aperol, lemon syrup, and prosecco ($12). Italian wines dominate the wine list, but there are a few French and California choices as well. Our party’s non-drinker had a mint iced tea special that provided enough kick to beat back the early evening’s heat, and there are also non-alcoholic house made sodas ($6).
Ingredients, whenever possible, are sourced locally from spots like Sky Farms, Hudson Valley Cattle Company, Wild Hive Farm, Heermance and others. Scappin has been in the Hudson Valley for close to 13 years, so he’s learned firsthand the difficulties of dealing with winter, and is as appreciative as anyone of the beautiful, bountiful spring, summer and fall seasons. The Rural Intelligence area is a “great melting pot,” he enthuses. His only wish is that there were more industries to bring work and money to the local population. “You want your children to stay in the area, not have to move to California or Boston.”
Scappin does his part, employing a good number of locals in his restaurants. At Market St., the staff — friendly, cheerful and uniformly gorgeous — will answer questions and steer you towards their favorites. Scappin believes strongly in the true meaning of hospitality: making people feel good and building a relationship. “If you’re abusive, you’re doomed,” he warns. “We concentrate on small details, and it’s always continuous work. We never give up. There is always something better we can do.”
19 West Market Street, Rhinebeck
Monday through Thursday 5-10 p.m.
Friday & Saturday 5-11 p.m.
Sunday 4-10 p.m.
Brunch served from 11 a.m.-3 p.m. on Saturdays & Sundays.