Food: The Swiss Raclette At Gedney Farm
By Lisa Green
I am not a skier. But I can dine like one, and fortunately, the good folks at Gedney Farm in New Marlboro require no ski lift ticket to enjoy the “après ski” Sunday night Swiss raclette. The raclette refers to both the semi-hard cheese and the dish traditionally served in Switzerland. Last Sunday was a blessedly balmy day, but after experiencing the raclette — warm Alpine cheese, baguette, small potatoes, pickled vegetables and a good French wine — I would brave sub-zero temps to share this candlelit repast with my honey. Tucked away in the cozy corner table in the fireside dining room, I felt like a skier in a fine Swiss chalet, and that was good enough for me.
There’s a history to the raclette involving cow herders and campfires high in the Swiss mountains going back hundreds of years, which leads to the meaning of the word itself. Raclette derives from the French racler — to scrape; the melted cheese is supposed to be scraped from the cheese wheel onto the plate. Today there’s a mini-industry of raclette grills for home use, and while it wasn’t clear how our cheese made it to the plate, Gedney Farm does have a more traditional raclette melter, at least on display.
Unsure if the raclette was a full meal or appetizer, we waited for it in suspense, and accepted our server’s recommendation of the Vin de Savoie Jongieux ($8/glass), a light white wine that Gedney Farm has wisely selected as an appropriate pairing with the adventure ahead. The two plates that followed looked and smelled heavenly. The warmed cheese — mild, buttery, slightly salty —merited its own plate, served beside a tableau of baguette, charcuterie, boiled marble potatoes, imported gherkins and house-cured pickled vegetables. Considering that the cheese is really the star of the evening, though, a more generous scraping would have allowed us to top it on more than the two small baguettes or a few potatoes.
But at $10 per person, this raclette is clearly meant to be a very light meal or the starter to one. A dinner menu beckoned, and we bit. Who wanted to move from our comfy, cushioned corner, anyway? Having already had our appetizer, we passed over, among other dishes, the truffled corn chowder with lobster ($10); farm frites with a trio of dips ($5); small plates of roast sweet potatoes with spiced figs ($11); and chimichurri mussels ($14). We went straight for the entrees.
My husband ordered the saffron seafood stew, a generous medley of halibut, shrimp, calamari and mussels in a light tomato broth ($23), which he pronounced velvety and flavorful. In my shrimp with coconut lemongrass sauce — served over rice noodles with carrot, scallion, baby bok choy and sesame ($19) — it was the sauce itself that nearly made me swoon. A delicate fusion of Thai-influenced flavors, it had a slightly creamy quality that had me spooning it up to the last.
We hadn’t meant to, but we came for the raclette and stayed right on through dessert. It’s tough to resist a warm flourless chocolate tart drizzled with salted caramel sauce. And just because our server suggested the Meyer lemon tart (“nice and light after a meal”), and because we really liked her, we ordered that, too (desserts $9 each). With the salted caramel of the former and the tanginess of the latter, the desserts weren’t too, too sweet: just right.
Gedney Farms’ proximity to Butternut Ski Area makes the Sunday Swiss raclette a wonderfully enjoyable way to cap a weekend. (The full dinner menu is served Thursday through Sunday in the winter.) Although the raclette is expected to be a seasonal offering, there are other plans in the works for the handsomely restored Normandy-style barn and lodging complex. This summer, look for a newly constructed wood-fired, Argentine-style grill built into the farm’s original stone foundation wall. Outdoor dining on the patio will offer lovely views of the fields. The Wednesday night music offerings recently introduced may be moved outside as well.
Gedney Farm is a popular spot for weddings and special events, but thankfully, by serving dinners and special fare like the raclette, the rest of us are able to experience the elegant setting and creative cuisine, too.
34 Hartsville-New Marlboro Rd., New Marlboro, MA
Winter season: Swiss Raclette on Sunday nights, dinner Thurs. – Sun.